Hiran Minar

Hiran Minar is a brick minaret built over the grave of the favourite antelope of emperor Nooruddin Mahmood Jahangir in Sheikhupura. In 1605 he laid the foundation stone of Jahangirpura, also called Sheikhupura (as Jahangir was affectionately called Sheikhu by his father, Jalaludin Muhammad Akbar). Sheikhupura became Jahangir's favourite hunting ground. Here, he built a beautiful fort, complete with a castle. He frequently visited this place and enjoyed hunting in the lush green forest. Legend has it that once Jahangir went there for his usual recluse and captured a beautiful wild antelope. This antelope was tamed in the brief span of one month. Jahangir named it Mansraj (King of the Antelopes). Whenever Jahangir came to Jahangirpura, Mansraj was the focus of special royal attention. But once, when Jahangir went on a hunt, he accidently shot Mansraj, and killed him. Jahangir, profoundly grieved, decided to build a tomb for his favorite pet and in 1607 forbade hunting in the area.He ordered a minaret to be built over the grave of Mansraj under the guidance of Sikander Mueen. The statue adorning the grave was shaped like an antelope, a fact recorded in the Tuzk-e-Jahangiri (Memoirs of Jahangir), although no stone is discernable over it now. Excavations in 1959 unearthed the head of the statue.
Jahangir came to inspect the tomb and was not satisfied. He ordered a baradari and a pond to be constructed. These were completed under the supervision of Iradat Khan in 1620. Shah Jahan, the next Mughal ruler, made some important alterations to the building in 1638. A common legend narrates that once a Sikh ruler came to see the Minar, which at that time was double its present height. When he climbed to the top, he accidently saw his daughter taking a bath. Infuriated, he ordered the minar to be cut to half its size. This was done.The Hiran Minar complex is spread over sixteen acres. The fish pond, measuring 750 feet by 890 feet, is fed by a canal. The minaret is 110 feet high and is approached by 110 steps. The pond is surrounded by a typical Mughal-style garden with rows of trees and pathways. However, the entire site is in a dilapidated condition. The baradari and minar are crumbling, the garden is untended, and the fish pond is a dirty green, although there are still fish in it.

Gawadar Port

Gwadar PortI wanted to write on this topic for many months. Finally I’ve got around to write on it. Most of our readers know Pakistan inaugurated its third deep sea port in Gwadar in March 2005. It became operational in March 2008 when first the ship carrying 52000 tonnes of wheat from Canada berthed here. In my opinion a great news of development for Pakistan, especially as a project whose foundation stone was laid just three years ago on March 22, 2002 and its first phase got finished on time in March 2005. Phase I includes building of three multipurpose berths. Gwadar port operations are run by the Port of Singapore Authority (PSA) under a 40-year agreement.

So far so good. But what are the strategic and political implications of this project. A quick search on internet will reveal a plethora of conspiracy theories. Some even call it a useless port for Pakistan. Others call it a part of new Great Game being played across the Balochistan province of Pakistan. So what is it?

In my opinion this is a brilliantly planned project and a great strategic move by Pakistan. With Pakistan Motorway Project connecting Gwadar to Peshawar via Punjab, a World Class Coastal Highway (N10) connecting Gwadar to Karachi, it may very well become the trade hub for this century. But while Pakistan has played its best move, other regional and global powers are also not sitting silent and they are making their own moves making Gwadar port a project with multi-dimensonal consequences.

Dimension One: Pakistan’s Strategic Interests

Gwadar Port(1) Gwadar is located only 180 nautical miles from the Strait of Hormuz through which 40% of World’s Oil passes. Gwadar could thus emerge as the key shipping hub in the area providing mass trade to central asian republics as well as across Pakistan and China. A road from Gwadar to Saindak is completed. Saindak is already connected to the RCD Highway (N35) and through Quetta-Chaman it provides the shortest route for trade with Central Asian Republics.

(2) Pakistan also needed a deep sea port away from Karachi so that in times of hostilities Pakistan Navy doesn’t get blockaded. With all the navy ships concentrated at Karachi port, a blockade of Pakistan had been quite easy in the past. With Jinnah Naval Base at Ormara and Gwadar port, PN should be able to spread out its assets. For reference, Gwadar port is 450 km further away from Indian Border than Karachi Port.

(3) Gwadar port will directly and indirectly bring lots of wealth, trade and infrastructure advancement to the area which has been traditionally left behind in developement. Compare it to how Karachi port transformed a once sleepy fishing village to a megapolis.

This is all good news for Pakistan.

The photo above is courtesy of Zahid Shahid at flickr.com

Dimension Two: Chinese Interests in Reaching Blue Waters

(1) It is also widely claimed that there is a Chinese interest in reaching the blue waters of Arabian Sea. This is cited as a strategic move by Chinese as they funded US $198 million (out of total phase I cost of US $248 million) and also provided 450 Engineers on site to finish the project on time. It is said that China is trying to develop its Western regions at par with its Eastern regions to reduce the economic gap within China and to stop the internal migration of people from West to East. It is famously called their ‘Go West’ policy. To market products produced in Western China, ports of Shanghai or other eastern ports are almost 3000 km away from the western production centers where as Gwadar provides access to a port at just 1500 km.

(2) There is another dimension to this project where Gwadar port is considered as the naval outpost for the Chinese. It has been called part of ‘String of Pearls’ strategy of Chinese where they’ve got hold of strategic ports in Gwadar, Bangladesh, SriLanka, Burma, Thailand, Combodia, and South China Sea etc. On a world map, these ports form of string (of pearls) which may form as Chinese line of defense to control oil movement. 80% of oil used in China goes through shipping lines of Malacca Straits. This strategy of a series of ports along the oil shipment routes gives China a forward footing. It is said that China is also wary that US may cut off its oil supplies through Malacca straits in case of any increase of hostilities on Taiwan issue.

(3) China has however, always denied that Gwadar will ever be used by Chinese military. Publicly they have always called it a civilian port of Pakistan.

Dimension Three: Iranian and Indian Interests in the Area

(1) Gwadar port is also making regional players nervous. Iran which is only 72 km away from Gwadar considers it as an economic threat taking business away from Iranian ports. So in competition to Gwadar, Iran has developed its own port called Chabahar with the help of India. Chabahar is located in Iranian Balochistan province of Seestan. India is also building 213 km long road to connect this Iranian port with Afghanistan. India is eyeing this Iranian port as its own shortest route to Central Asian markets and may be a counter balance to Chinese influence in Gwadar.

(2) India may also consider the Chinese influence in Gwadar as a move by China to encircle India, hence their interest in developing Iranian port of Chabahar.

Dimension Four: Baloch Nationalist Interests

(1) Now if you thought that was all, don’t forget the nationalist angle to Gwadar port. Baluchi people in whose province this port has been developed are not 100% behind the project. Their apprehensions are that other provinces will reap the real economic benefits of this development. There is also a resentment against the labor for the port coming from other provinces as well as the real estate boom that Gwadar is seeing is going to people from outside Balochistan. This has resulted in some violence in the area including some attacks even targeted against the Chinese engineers.

The attacks against the Chinese also gives rise to the speculation that our friendly neighbors may be inciting Balochi nationalism for their own economic agenda but there has to be some truth that Baluchis deserve more share in their province’s resources.

I really hope our political leadership use their acumen to pacify feelings of alienation among Balochis otherwise Pakistan will see the benefits from Gwadar port scaling down to none.

Photo of the beautiful Gwadar town below.

Chronology of Gwadar Port:

1964: Gwadar identified as a port site in Pakistan

1993: Feasibility Studies started by Pakistan for a deep seaport at Gwadar.

May 2001: Chinese Premier Zhu Rongji under-writes the Gwadar Port Project on his visit to Pakistan

March 22, 2002: Chinese Vice Premier Wu Bangguo laid the foundation of Gwadar Port.

May 3, 2004: Three Chinese engineers are killed and 11 others injured in an attack while traveling to Gwadar.

November 2004: A Chinese cargo vessel carrying port building equipment successfully berthed at Gwadar port.

March 2005: Phase I of Gwadar Port project completed and the port inaugurated by the Chinese Premier.

March 2008: First ship anchors at the Gwadar port, bringing 52000 tonnes of Wheat from Canada

Punjab - The Land Of Five Rivers

Punjab the heart of Pakistan. The land of five waters, and five seasons, known for its fertility, colorful panorama and exquisitely serene and clean atmosphere. Its waters have seen life being quenched since centuries. Its trees have embraced the wind that was fragrant by the immortal stories like Heer Ranjha, Sohni Mahiwal and Mirza Sahiban. The soil which, nurtured sufi poets like Baba Farid, Ali Hajveri, Bulhe Shah, Shah Hussain, Mian Muhammad Bakhsh and Waris Shah. Punjab has seen the starving of Budha and the wandering of Guru Nanak in search of truth. Its terrain has kept the secrets of Indus Valley civilizations along the River Indus at Harappa and many more un-discovered places. Waters still sing here, winds never forget to whisper and rains know how do dance in Mon Soon.

So it is not a bad idea either to visit this place which is gifted with mountains, rivers, planes, fruits, trees, artifacts, historical monuments and the largest salt range of the world.

Here we are to present the worth seeing places that can make you feel the glory and grandeur of almost all parts of Punjab.

A promise for the Future

An important city of ancient Gandhara and a place that enlightened the Budha and one of the greatest archeological sites the world possesses today. The ruins of Taxila, scattered about 30 KM away from Rawalpindi, represent the historical value of over 1000 years ago (around 500 BC to 500 AD). This place has the honor to have the world’s best known university at that ancient time offering subjects like law, medicine, arts etc. At Taxila, various sites are scattered over a large area encompassing; Bhir Mound, Dharmarajika, Budhist Stupa and Monastery. Moreover, one could find Sirsukh City remains, the Shrine of Double-headed eagle, Jandial temple, Sirsukh City and Jaulian Budhist Monastery etc. The Taxila museum is known for its Gandhara artifacts, a rare blend of Greek and Budhist Art. This museum also has a collection of old coins, utensils, jewelry, toys and pottery manifesting the highlights of the life style of ancient Taxila.

2. Harappa Rediscovering History

The Indus Valley civilization covers almost the exact area where Pakistan exists today. Mehrgarh in Balochistan, Mohenjo Daro in Sindh and Harappa in Punjab possess the clandestine of a common society. Excavations have proved that around 3000 BC. Harappa was inhabited by nomadic tribes. The remains show a prosperous and comfortable life in that old epoch with emphasis on sanitation and everyday facilities. This land has trade relations with Egypt, the other developed civilization of the ancient world. The archeological museum at the site entrance may take you to the wonder world of past through found artifacts.

The Salt Range An Evaporated Sea

It is undoubtedly a geologist’s dream with variety of minerals and rocks. Having great natural beauty, this area varies in height between 750 and 1500 meters and climate is noticeably cooler in summer. The largest Salt Mine of the world, Khewra also exists here. On the other hand, Kallar Kahar with its salt lake and orchard, centuries old Hindu Temples at Ketas and pilgrimage sites are breathtaking. This is the sea that extended over the Indus Plain and the Potowar Plateau that evaporated 600 million years ago. Rocks and fossils at this site provide the missing links of the story of earth. Around Khewra at Nandna, famous Muslim traveler and historian al-Beruni measured the circumference of the earth during 11th century.

3. Jhelum Land of the Brave

Jhelum is located at the base of the Potowar Range, overlooking the endless green fields of the Punjab. Alexander the great crossed the river at this place and fought with Raja Poras, whom the famous quotation is related to, when he answered the Alexander,

“As a king would treat a king” The famous Rohtas Fort, built by Sher Shah Suri is also located here which, is still standing against all odds. People here are endearingly hospitable, looking to welcome you with warmth and fervor. Mangla, one of the largest dams of the world, is also built on river Jhelum.

4. Bahawalpur Reminder of a Glorious Past

The princely state of Bahawalpur, founded in 1748 by Nawab Bahawal Khan Abassi. Located at the edge of the city of Multan, Bahawalpur is the gateway to the greatest desert; Cholistan. It is quite green in nature but towards south, the soil becomes sandy. This area is studded with many tourist spots like; Lal Sohanra National Park and the famous shrine of Uchh Sharif. The blue mosaics of the ruined tombs at Uchh Sharif, remind the glorious past. Among these, is the 15th century octagonal tomb of Bibi Jawindi. Bhong Mosque is another important historical monument, known as Pakistan’s most ostentatious mosques.

5. Cholistan Gateway to Adventure

Extended on the far south of the Punjab, Cholistan is the largest desert in Pakistan with an area of 25,000 sq. Km. It touches the Thar Desert in the south and Rajhastan Desert in the east. About 1000 years ago, Cholistan was a fertile lplain watered with the Gaggar River (now called Hakra in Pakistan), archeolists have discovered 400 old inhabited sites, mostly dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization. In the middle of the desert, stands the Drawar Fort with massive walls and numerous buttresses. Nearby is the elegant Drawar Mosque, the exact replica of the Moti Masjid of Delhi’s Red Fort. About 45 Km. towards south of Drawar Fort is the shrine of Channan Pir, an important pilgrim center in the desert.

6. Multan the Land of Mystics

Multan probably the oldest surviving city in the south-West Asia. Every invader from Alexander through the Mughals to the British has fought for control of the city of Multan. This city has a unique feature of housing tombs and saints, more than any place of the world. Towering shrines made of brick, stone and wood add to the serenity of this place. Shrines of Shah Rukn e-Alam, Hazrat Bahaudin Zikirya and Shah Shams Tabrez are the most famous and visited ones. The galaxy of mosques and mausoleums of Multan, speak eloquently of the grandeur and sublimity of this great city. Blue stylistic and glazed pottery is a salient feature of the arts and crafts of Multan.

7. Lahore Bastion of the Mughal Spirit

The famous metropolitan city and provincial capital of today, has got so much to speak of history. It holds within its bustling bazaars, historical monuments and narrow streets, the heritage of hundreds of years, the culture of royal tradition and force of spiritualism. The shrine of Hazrat Ali Hajver known as Data Darbar welcomes everybody at the entrance of the city, while the walled city culture still grasps the close relationship between people. Lahore was founded by Loh, the son of Rama Chandra, however the recorded history of Lahore dates back to 1021 AD when Lahore was conquered by Mahmood Ghaznavi who made it the capital of his Ghaznavi Empire. Then Mughals gave so much importance to this city, by awarding it the famous architecture in the form of gardens, mosques, tombs and the famous Fort. Shalamar Garden by Shahjehan and Badshahi mosque by Aurangzeb are the emblems of great history this city possesses. Jahangir and Nur Jehan are also buried here. Anarkali Bazar, Toligton Market, Lahore Museum and Punjab University (old Campus) jewels the famous Mall Road (Thandi Sarak). The British introduced here a combination of Mughal, Gothic and Victorian style of architecture. Lahore offers a great deal more than just monuments, a variety of art galleries, museums, theatres and shopping arcades along with the cool tree-lined avenues, lush green lawns, fountains and modern high rise buildings.

8. Muree Rediscovering Nature

The most popular and most developed hill-station of Pakistan. With a height of 7500 feet, Muree is a cool and crispy place in summer as well as in winter. This area is rich with towering pine trees, in long summer days; one could stroll lazily or ride ponies along shady path on the Mall- between Kasmir and Pindi Points. There are the Gallies with their charming red roof chalets covered with snow in winter and set amidst fragrant pines. Muree, a jewel of a hillstation, nestles in the shadow of snow-clad peaks.

9. Nankana Sahib Janam Isthan

Nankana Sahib, situated at 39 Km. south-west of Sheikhupura, is an important place of pilgrimage. There are two main Sikh temples or Gurdwaras here. Ba Lila where Guru Nanak the founder of Sikh religion spent his childhood and Janamasthan, where he is believed to have been born. Thrice a year on Besakhi (April), Death anniversary of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (June) and birthday of Guru Nanak Dev (November), Sikh yatris visit these holy places in thousands.

10. Rawalpindi Base camp to Adventure

Rawalpindi, a twin city to Islamabad, is the gateway to the historical Silk Route. It presents a sharp contrast to the city of Islamabad. It is the base camp of thrill-exhibitors from all over the world who buckle up here to meet the most exciting and treacherous peaks in the world. Rawalpindi is famous for strong military cantonment, towns bazaars; Raja, Sarafa and Muree road. Moreover, historical Liaqat Bagh lies in the heart of the city.

Jinnah House

Jinnah House was the residence of Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan; in Mumbai, India. It was built in 1936 at a then exorbitant price of 2 lakh (200,000) rupees when Jinnah returned to Mumbai from England to take charge of the Muslim League. Jinnah House was the residence of Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan; in Mumbai, India. It was built in 1936 at a then exorbitant price of 2 lakh (200,000) rupees when Jinnah returned to Mumbai from England to take charge of the Muslim League. Now worth around $60 million the house is the subject of a dispute between India, the government of Pakistan and Jinnah's daughter Dina Wadia. The bungalow is located on Mount Pleasant Road (now Bhausaheb Hirey Marg) in the upmarket Malabar Hill area of South Mumbai. Its opposite neighbour is the residence of the Chief Minister of Maharashtra.

Designed by architect Claude Batley in the European-style architecture, the sea facing palatial bungalow was constructed using exquisite Italian marble and walnut woodwork. Specially imported Italian stone masons were employed for its construction with Jinnah personally supervising the construction "brick by brick". The property encompasses an area of 10,000 square metres (2.5 acres). The mansion, with its pointed arches and impressive columns, is currently in a dilapidated state, and much of the walnut panelling has rotted.

The historic building was also the venue for the watershed talks on the Partition of India in September 1944 between Jinnah and MK Gandhi. Ironically on 15 August 1946, exactly a year before India gained independence, another round of talks was held here between Jinnah and Jawaharlal Nehru which altered the course of Indian history.

Mansion inhabitants

Jinnah was extremely attached to his house. After India was partitioned, Mumbai remained a part of India and Jinnah left his abode as he became the Governor General of Pakistan. He requested to Nehru, the then Indian Prime Minister to allot his house to any foreign consulate, preferably European, as he wished it to be given to a European family who would appreciate the architecture. Nehru acceded to Jinnah's request and offered him a monthly rent of three thousand rupees. Unfortunately Jinnah died in September 1948 before the deal could be finalised.

As a personal favour to Jinnah, Nehru did not declare the property as Enemy Property, as was done to most properties held by emigrants to Pakistan. In 1955, in a Cabinet speech he suggested it be gifted to the Government of Pakistan, but could not gain the sanction of the Cabinet. Though India's Foreign minister and the Indian High Commissioner to Pakistan suggested that the mansion be handed over to Pakistan in 1956, the suggestion never materialised.

The premises were leased to the British High Commission as the residence of the Deputy High Commissioner from 1948 to 1983. The first floor of the building also held the offices of senior Commission officials. It remained vacant until 2003, when a part of it was given to the Indian Council for Cultural Relations to be used for cultural activities. In March 2005, India's Minister of State for External Affairs, E Ahemad reiterated that the house would remain as a cultural centre.